Khaite Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection


At Khaite today you could reach across the runway and shake the hand of the person opposite you. Up close like that, the models zip by, but if you’re paying attention you don’t miss a thing. Since designer Catherine Holstein specializes in the little details that turn everyday clothes and accessories into cult objects, it was a useful set-up, all the better to see—and snap—the strappy little evening sandals with lucite Louis heels that are now in the running for shoe of the week.

Khaite is now one of New York’s must-see brands. Celebrities jostle for seats and, if my Instagram feed is anything to go by, editors are eager to buy and wear it. Holstein knows her audience. “That independent, New York, strong, stealth woman—that is who I’m designing for,” she said backstage.

For spring she sent out her dependable mix of sequins and silk fringe, leather and denim. Because she was looking at the 1990s films of David Lynch, Wild at Heart in particular, there was a good amount of python print. Nicolas Cage’s character wears a python jacket in the movie; Holstein stamped the pattern on leather for exaggerated bombers and pencil skirts, and silk charmeuse for a voluminous peasant dress. A little python goes a long way, admittedly. The other novelty here was bubble skirts (a trending item this week). Their horsehair reinforced waistbands sat at the crest of the hip bones below everything from a mesh bustier to a crystal embroidered shirt. The low waistlines gave those outfits a cool attitude—polished but not pretentious.

Because Holstein is designing for herself and for women like her, she’s got the attitude aspect nailed, but that’s not to diminish her eye for proportion or the exacting lines of her tailoring. A strong-shouldered, elongated jacket with crystal-studded lapels was a looker. You’ll be seeing it around next fall with a tie-neck silk blouse and jeans and those little sandals.



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